The Dublin Community Blog

SO the sun is out, the kids are off school, neighbours are playing their music VERY BLOODY LOUDLY (ahem) and there’s a hint of ‘something’ in the air. Yes, mid-summer sale season is upon us again! (Work with me here.)

Most of the shops are frantically selling off their itsy-bitsy bikinis and summer stock, and getting ready for autumn, or fall for all of our visitors from across the pond, so now is the time to strike.

Of course, much of the stuff on offer is either a size 6 or a 24, or in a lovely shade of orange, but if you can bear rummaging through mountains of clothes, there’s bound to be a gem or two in there.

Last week I had occassion to visit the Liffey Valley Shopping Centre in Clondalkin in the west of the city with my sister and baby niece and found it a good alternative to shopping in the city centre, particularly with a baby on board.

First off, there is ample parking and it’s free for visitors of the centre (though I don’t recall if there’s a time limit, so maybe check that out when  you get there) which is a welcome change from paying huge prices to park in town. Just as an aside, most people who go to Liffey V tend to park either at the front entrance, or at the cinema entrance, but here’s my little tip, the Mark’s and Spencer entrance (Purple car park) usually has loads of free spaces, just follow the signs.

Liffey Valley is all on one level, except for the food court and one or two shops upstairs, meaning it’s buggy and wheelchair friendly (there’s a lift to the food court) and very easy to get around.

We started out at the far end of the centre, Marks and Spencer (where there’s a secret ATM in the men’s department), and had coffee in the Cafe Revive there which is very tasty and clean, with a plethora of staff on hand to man the till and clear tables; mothers and children are made to feel very welcome.

From there we mosied on down the centre, passing well known shops such as River Island and Principals until we got to the main concourse, which has the escalators to the food hall. Here is where you’ll find the Customer Service Desk, juice bar and where most charity stalls etc (say if someone was selling pins or buttons for cancer, this is where they would be) are set up, meaning everything is contained in this one area, not scattered about the rest of the centre. You can also hire fun car shaped buggies to transport your little ones around, costing just a few euro. (They don’t let adults get in them though, no matter how much you beg, harumph.)

The food court features the usual fast food outlets such as McDonald’s and Burger King but there is also a Bagel Bar, Cafe Kyelmore and baked potato shop, if you happen to be watching your waistline. I wasn’t, so gorged myself on lard. Mmmmm, lard.

We then hit Sasha, A-Wear and various sports shops until we got to a big Dunne’s Stores about three quarters of the way down the centre. There are large ladies and gents loos too in this area, along with pay phones and disabled toilets, as well as baby changing facilities. Any time I’ve visited, the loos been clean and tidy with plenty of paper and soap.

After this it was the home stretch to Eason’s, Boots and the cinema (Vue) where there is also an Eddie Rockets, Pizza Hut and steak house. So if you fancied doing a little shopping, having a meal and then hitting the flicks, this would be the place to do it. Be warned though, all three restaurants beside the cinema are usually very busy so be prepared to queue at peak times.

The cinema itself is large with a good number of screens and offers the usual movie fare, such as popcorn and nachos. Prices are similar to the city centre, though if you’re a large family it might be worth looking into a yearly pass or membership if it’s available.

While shopping in the city centre has its charm and offers a wide variety of shops along with tourist attractions, Liffey Valley is a great alternative on days when you can’t face the hassle of parking, you have the kids with you or you just fancy some retail therapy and the movies without traipsing about for miles, or indeed if you’re a tourist looking to get out of the city for a bit. Dotted throughout the centre are carts and stalls offering everything from new mobile phone covers, to sweets, to gorgeous jewellrey, so you could easily while away a couple of hours. On the day I was there last week, many of the shops were having sales and my little niece got a gorgeous brand-name coat for just 11 euro in Ladybird. Bargain!

To find out more about Liffey Valley including opening hours and directions, bus routes to and from the city centre and special offers vist www.liffeyvalley.ie

I have a friend leaving Ireland soon to go back to America to work. I am making her a photo album of Dublin and Ireland to remember her time here. So, this is meant to be an interactive post. When you think of Dublin or Ireland, what do you think of? I want to make sure that I have the “good” pictures.

So far, I have:

pint of Guiness
Grafton Street
O’Connell Street
Ha’Penny Bridge
Avoca shop
Kilkenny shop (she goes there often)
Arnotts (again, she likes to shop there)
The spire
Double Decker Bus
St. Stephan’s Green
Pictures from St. Paddy’s day

What else is a “must have” in a Dublin/Ireland photo album?

One of the best kept secrets in Dublin seems to be the food market in Temple Bar’s Meeting House Square. I say it is one of the best kept secrets because if you have ever tried to get some fast food in Dublin city center around lunchtime on a Saturday you will find yourself at the back of a long queue waiting for a tray full of half-cooked re-heated mush while at the same time hidden away in Temple Bar is a weekly food market selling a variety of organic and fresh foodstuffs, from sushi and vegetables to hot dogs and burgers. It is generally busy with tourists but you can still pick up a quick snack to eat as you browse the other stalls or wander further afield in Temple Bar to the other markets, a book market and a clothes market.

The book market is held in Temple Bar Square itself and seems to have gotten smaller over time and I personally have never bought anything there but during the summer there are street performers in the main square where the book market is held so if you don’t find any interesting books you may well find something else to pass the time.

The clothes market is one I have only passed through twice. Small and less busy than the others because of its location in Cows Lane away from the main Temple Bar area. It seems to be mainly small local designers with clothes and jewelery.

If you’re read my last post, you’ll be aware that I bloody well hate shopping in Dublin at the best of times.  No surprise then, that I’m a fan of internet shopping.

A huge benefit of shopping over the internet is that you don’t have to run the guantlet of chuggers that is Dublin’s city centre. So here’s a novel concept: shop online, avoid the chuggers, and retailers will reward you by ….. giving money to charity anyway? Sounds fanciful?  Not quite.

Two engineering graduates of University College Dublin (who must hate shopping as much as me) have come up with www.charityshop.ie, which acts like the front door of a cyber-shopping centre.  Top online retailers like Amazon, CD-Wow, iTunes and eBay are all on board. By going through the ‘front door’ of www.charityshop.ie, you pick a charity (currently either Oxfam Ireland or Unicef), and then carry on to shop through whichever retailer you want to spend your cash with.

The retailer will then make a donation to your chosen charity, and the more you spend, the more is donated on your behalf. You can book holidays on it, bet on the gee-gees, and even buy your boring office crap from Viking Direct.  All without any extra cost to you, and most importantly, without having to play dodge-the-chugger-guilt-trip.

There’s plenty of room for more retailers and charities, and the charityshop.ie lads are keen to recruit. Contact them here.

Failing that, Oxfam Ireland have shops around the capital where you can buy modern-day indulgences, with top marks going to the one on South King St, just beside the Gaiety Theatre.

 

 

 

It’s Saturday, and I’m suddenly aware that I must have a massive overdraft on my karma account.  Gods, demons and voodoo magic have conspired to stand me in Brown Thomas, holding bags and a taut smile.

Smiling is making me weary. I check mirrors, worried that my deep concentration on not frowning or appearing frustrated could be contorting my face into all manner of expressions.  I catch a reflection, and I’m looking blank. I’ll settle for that.

Panning around, I take in a half dozen or so other lost souls; men who have become islands.  We stand alone, transfixed in an ocean of bewildering female decadence. There’s no solidarity among men in Brown Thomas, each suffers stoically, stranded in a personal trance of indifference. To band together would be an acknowledgment of where we are. Better to feign invisibility than admit that we are, in fact, in the loathsome shop.  Banding together would also denote some form of solidarity, a statement to wives and girlfriends that our discontent unites us.  Of course, we cannot be seen to harbour any ill-feeling. We’re happy to be here. No, really, take your time, dear. 

 

Brown Thomas or not, shopping on a Saturday is no picnic. Dublin is heaving, people crab their way up Grafton Street, presenting their profile to the madding crowds the better to squeeze through.  Buskers are louder and cheaper. Pickpockets, teenage goths and assorted scumbags all crawl out from dark recesses in their droves. Chuggers ratchet their pitch up a gear. (I notice that Plan Ireland now employ African chuggers in a bid to out-guilt the opposition).

Perhaps I’m a shop-claustrophobe, but a day either side suits me far better. Working on a Sunday means that Friday is my day off. It’s a swap that I’ll gladly make; by working Sundays I have Fridays off when no-one else does. Fridays give you an easy run at the city. Clear streets, empty aisles, and elbow-room in the cafes.  There’s even walkable gaps between the enormous American tourists. 

If you’re reading this looking for advice on where to go in Dublin, best spend a little time thinking about when to go.  Saturday isn’t it.

Last week a couple friends came to visit and for a conference. Jer had a conference and Shel came over to explore Dublin. She asked me what she should do while here. I gave her a couple suggestions of good tours but she just wanted to explore the city and see castles. I spent two of the days with her. Here are our reviews of what she did.

Malahide: nice little town to wander around. We walked from the train station to the castle grounds. The walk and the grounds are very nice. We also took the 30-minute tour of the castle. That was a waste of 6 Euro. I had actually done this tour twice before so I knew that it wasn’t worth it but she wanted to do the tour and I had to go with her. The tour is “self guided” where they have an audio system that tells you about the rooms as you go through them in their determined order and pace.

Dublin Castle: This tour is worth it I am told. I still haven’t done it but both Shel and John have done this tour. The tour guides are knowledgeable and it is a much longer tour for about 3 Euro I believe. Also, there is an interesting table in one of the rooms. It was made by a jailed Irish woodworker for Queen Victoria. He was offered a chance to get out of jail if he made a table that was satisfactory to the queen. Well, he made this beautiful inlaid table that has pictures of devils doing lots of things to a ladies with their skirts up. The queen did not approve.

Christchurch: Again, I still haven’t toured this but it is supposed to be worth it.
Dublina: This a museum of Midevil Dublin. John highly recommends this. There was an old alphabet listed.When he did the tour, he brought back this piece of paper with three words on it that I had to figure out what he wrote.
Avoca: This is a store near Grafton Street and worth a visit. I really like their blankets but their clothes are for very skinny women and expensive. I like the downstairs food stuff area. I get my olive oil and maple syrup there. The maple syrup is from the States and actually cheaper than it is back home!
Nasseau Street: This is where the higher end gifts are. The Trinity Crafts or Trinity Sweater store have more reasonably priced Irish sweaters and frequently has sales. I got quite a few Christmas presents there. I also like the wooden bowls and pottery at the Kilkenny Store. They have some nice Irish designers. Their clothes are also for fairly small women but I did find a sweater there this winter.
Grafton Street: Everyone says to go here but I don’t think it is the best shopping around. It is nice to see the street performers but not really all that unique. Grafton street is usually very crowded and it is hard to walk around. There are high quality flowers for sale by street vendors, though. The shops off Grafton are interesting.
Dublin Bus North Coast Tour: This is an OK tour and I have taken it twice. It is a nice way to see the coast and learn a bit about Dublin if you like organized tours and aren’t renting a car and don’t want to take the train up the coast to wander around.
Dublin Bus Wicklow Mountain Tour: This leaves from the bus station near Connolly Station. It is an all day tour and worth it if you want to get out of the city and don’t want to rent a car. You go to St. Kevin’s monastary and Powerscourt Gardens. You have about an hour to walk around Glendalough which is very pretty. The bus also goes through the Wicklow Gap.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral: This is a nice cathedral to wander around in. I don’t think it charges anything but may ask for a donation.
The Whiskey Store: This is a small shop on Dawson Street. The staff are knowledgeable about the whiskey and that have tastes usually. They also have a small selection of wine.
Temple Bar: There are overpriced restaurants here. It is an interesting area and has a lot of night life. There are some interesting little shops like the African store near the Bad Ass cafe. It is pretty empty early in the morning and busy at night, especially during tourist season. Since I live in this area, I go out there a lot but there are far cheaper places to eat and drink. Here are some of my favorite places to eat in Temple Bar:
Shann: Indian place that opens at 7:00 and is open late. Everything that I have tried there I have liked. It is never very busy so you don’t have to worry about reservations. Entrees are about 10 Euro.
Gallaghers Boxty House: Entrees are about 15 Euro but it is pretty tasty. I like the vegetarian chili boxty. There is also some spice to the food.
Porterhouse: They have a huge selection of beer and a decent menu. I really like the brie and sweet potato salad. I am told that their burgers are pretty good. The Porterhouse Central on Grafton has a bigger menu but the strobe lights turn on about 10:00 PM. The one in Temple Bar stops serving food about 9:30. Oh, the brownie and Porter cake are quite tasty.
Elaphant and Castle: This is a very popular place and going early is helpful. The chicken wings are really tasty. Entrees are in the 10-15 Euro range.
Toscana: This is past Temple Bar on Dame Street but is a really good Italian place. I really like their cheese garlic bread, pasta Aribiata, and the primivera. Their desserts are also nice. They have a pretty good early bird menu (ends 6:30 PM). Their lunch menu is also good.
Bad Ass Cafe: This is a slightly more American style place. The chicken wings are good and their pizzas are excellent. I highly recommend the pesto pizza. I would not recommend the ice cream.
Paloma: This is a Spanish place. The clerico and sangria are tasty. During the week they have a good tapas menu. We like the patatas bravas, garlic shrimp, and calamari (starter).
I do not recommend The Alamo. It has mediocre food that isn’t really Mexican. Mexico to Rome is alright but I don’t feel a need to go back there again.

WHILE out and about at the weekend, it struck me how visitors and tourists to our shores could benefit from a little insider knowledge about how to avoid various pitfalls and mistakes in Dublin, which will ensure them an enjoyable stay.

I’m not talking about ‘don’t wander around with five massive cameras and a wallet full of 50s cos that’ll get you killed’ or ‘taxis are a rip off, get the bus’ advice, because everyone knows that by now, I’m talking about the subtle hints and tips that everyone should know.

For example: 1. When you’re walking from Dame Street to Temple Bar through the Central Bank, don’t walk by the side where the gold ball is, as there’s a bit of a bottleneck passageway there and there is ALWAYS a do-gooder charity person trying to get you to give away your moolah. Instead walk through at the other side, beside the Foggy Dew, and you’ll avoid the chugger [charity mugger] and also the smell of wee in the passageway.

2. Up until very recently Ireland only had two types of hot drinks: tea or coffee both of which were made with boiling water. Now of course we’re much more cosmopolitan and we have our share of half-fat, de-caff, cap lattes and frappachinos and the whole lot BUT we’re not entirely sure how to make them. So, to this end, whenever you get a takeaway fancy coffee, I guarantee you it’ll only be half full, topped up with lots of fancy foam, so always ALWAYS ask them to ‘whack in a tad more milk there’ so that you get your money’s worth.

3. Near Bad Bob’s nightclub in Temple Bar there is a missing cobble stone right smack bang in the centre of the street. Step into it at your peril. Trust me, it really really really hurts when you fall!

4. There is a ‘secret’ ATM machine in Tesco in the Jervis Centre, just off Henry Street and also downstairs in Debenhams in the same centre. Before you join a massive queue for some cash out on the street or in the middle of Jervis, check out both of these. Sometimes they’re out of order, but more often than not they’re working with no queue and it’s happy days!

5. The toilets in The Mint Bar in the Westin Hotel on Westmoreland Street are gorgeous. Plenty of cubicles, clean, fabulous Molton Brown soap and hand cream and perfectly located if you’re dying to go and your only other option is a fast food dive (don’t go into the dive toilets, you’ll catch the syphallis). You’ll have to go in through the main door of the hotel and waltz past the doorman with a bit of purpose and then downstairs to the bar and the loos, but if you stick your nose in the air and give off an air of ‘daaaahling, yars, let’s do lunch’ you’ll get in no probs.

6. Dublin has probably one of the worst chewing gum/litter problems in the world. Don’t sit on the ground/steps,  you’ll get gum on your ass. We also have a problem with public urination, so you’re likely to get that on your ass too. Carry a plastic bag with you at all times and if you’re forced to perch on a wall or a step you can whisk it out and sit in comfort.

7. Any member of the Garda Siochana, security staff at the door of a shop/bar or ordinary citizens strolling around window shopping, will give you directions with a smile. Honestly. People rushing to work, soaking wet after forgetting their umberella and talking ninteen to the dozen on their phones trying to assure their boss they’re ‘two seconds’ away will not. Choose your battles well!

8. You’ll know you’re getting a good deal on a meal in a decent restaurant if a starter costs between 4 and 7 euro, a main course between 11 and 16 and a dessert costing around the 4 mark. Anything very over that and I firmly believe you’re being ripped off. Try Trastevere in Temple Bar, prices generally around that mark and the food is exquisite. Also Gruel on Dame Street. Out of this world and very reasonable.

9. Towards the end of the day on Grafton Street, some of the flower sellers tend to take a little off the price of their very-high-quality blooms, just in case you wanted to brighten up your hotel room.

10. And finally, the question I get asked most often by visitors and tourists: Dublin city centre can roughly be divided into two sides, northside and southside. The River Liffey divides the two. Northside has O’Connell, Henry and Jervis streets while southside has Temple Bar, Trinity College, Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green. Now, don’t make that mistake again!

Anyone any more they’d like to add?

A brief thought on this Good Friday for all here. I listened fairly intently this morning to the president in the UK talking about how we should be appreciating the sacrifice made by the heroes of 1916 as, and I’m paraphrasing here, without it we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the fruits of the Celtic Tiger.

Am I the only one who sees the irony of removing England as a colonial power 90 years ago, asserting our independence as a nation and then spending today (as many will), spending all their money in stores owned by UK/US/European corporations?

Not that I’m a “burn the Marks & Spencers” hardcore financionationalist (wow, a word that David McWilliams didn’t invent!) – far from it, I bought a Starbucks coffee here in the radio centre this morning and got a shirt yesterday in Next. It’s just that I’ve seen a couple of local shops near where I live go belly up in the last 12 months in the face of competition from large international chains.

I’ll always try to shop locally where possible be it (as Karen has suggested below) in the Temple Bar Market or the local butcher or pharmacist or coffee shop. After all, if we don’t, they close, choice becomes smaller and smaller and that’s never a good thing for anyone. So maybe if you really want to celebrate the spirit of 1916 today get to know your local grocer, butcher, cinema owner or whatever because come the next downturn (what will we call that anyway…. the Celtic Mouse? And that one’s copyright too McWilliams!!!) they’ll still be here when the big corporations have headed elsewhere in search of the bigger bottom line…

R